The Maldives for Independent Travellers

More than you could ever Imagine!

After 40 years travelling and 150 countries it takes a lot for somewhere to take my breath away and even more to make it into my Top 10 destinations of a lifetime, and the Maldives does both.  And the good news is that it is possible to visit the Maldives as an independent budget conscious traveller. And yes, it is as stunning as they say. I'll promise you wont be disappointed!  The Maldives are a collection of over 1000 of the planets most stunning tropical islands with mantra rays and reefs off the powder white sand beaches, beautiful locals, and small islands where you can escape the tourist invasion. But get there while you can and join the fight against global warming and environmental degradation to save amazing places like the Maldives before it suffers the fate of many of the other places, we once called paradise.

A bit about the Maldives

Location, Geography and Climate

The Maldives is southwest of Sri Lanka and India, about 750 kilometres (470 miles; 400 nautical miles) from the Asian mainland. There are 1,192 islands in the Maldives classified as inhabited, uninhabited, and disappeared.  Only 187 of them are inhabited. This includes 160 resort islands and 27 local islands.   Some are nothing more than small sand islands. The Maldives is the smallest nation in Asia, with the islands only covering a land mass of 298 square kilometres (115 square miles). However, it’s spread over a total area- including the ocean between the islands of 90,000 square kilometres (34,749 miles).  It stretches for 871 kilometres from north to south and 130 at its widest from east to west. The highest point is only 2.4 m above sea level (we know why rising sea levels is a big worry for them).

Some islands stand-alone but most are remnants of a long volcanic mountain range that runs from India over the equator. The islands are clustered in circles showing the shapes of the rims of these long extinct volcanoes. Inside the distinct physical circle of islands lagoons have been formed and unique and amazing marine ecosystems now exist. These are called atolls and there are 26 in the Maldives.

There are actually two kinds of atolls in the Maldives. The natural atolls mentioned above, and the administrative regions also called atolls which just to confuse us sometimes do and sometimes don't match a natural atoll (there are only 20 administrative atolls). The atolls can be considered as Northern Atolls, Central Atolls, and Sothern Atolls. To make it just a bit more confusing each atoll also has a formal and informal name. Most travellers (and locals) us the informal name. Sound confusing, not really, you’ll work it out.

Atolls of the Maldives, in ordered by distance from Velana International airport. Only inhabited local islands are listed (not all the 160+ islands that are resort only islands).

1.Kaafu Atoll (also called Male Atoll): Includes the natural atolls of:

North Male (islands of Dhiffushi, Thulusdhoo, Hulhumale, Himmafushi, Huraa, Male, Villingilli) 

South Malé (islands of Guraidhoo, Gulhi, Maffushi)

and Gaafaru and Kaashidhoo Islands.

Home to the capital of the Maldives - Malé - as well as Velana International Airport. There are over 50 resorts (more than any other area).

2. Vaavu Atoll (also known as Felidhe Atoll): 56km (35 miles) to the south of Malé.

Includes the natural atolls of Felidhu and the Vaataru Reef. As of 2023 there are 5 resorts.

3. North Ari Atoll (also called Alifu Alifu): 65km (40 miles) west of Malé. Includes

the natural atoll of Rasdhoo and Thoddoo Island. As of 2023 there are 11 resorts.

4. South Ari Atoll (also known as Alifu Dhaalu): 72km (45 miles) south-west of Malé.

As of 2023 there are 15 resorts.

5. Baa Atoll (also known as Maalhosmadulu Dhekunuburi):   110km (68 miles) north-west of Malé. Includes the natural atoll of Goidhoo (Goifulhafehendhu). The Baa Atoll is a UNESCO world heritage biosphere and home of Hanifaru Bay. There are 18 resorts.  

6. Faafu Atoll:115km (72 miles) south-west of Malé. There is a single resort in Faafu Atoll  

7. Lhaviyani Atoll (Also known as Faadhippolhu Atoll): 120km (75 miles) north of Malé.

There are 10 resorts.

8. Meemu Atoll (also known as Mulaku Atoll): 130km (80 miles) south of Malé.

There are three resorts.

9. Raa Atoll (also known as Maalhosmadulu Uthuruburi): 150km (95 miles) northwest of Malé. Includes the island of Alifushi. There are 17 resorts.

10. Dhaalu Atoll (also known as Nilandhe Atholhu Dhekunuburi): 150km (95 miles) southwest of Malé. There are nine resorts.

11. Noonu Atoll (also called Miladhunmadulu Dhekunuburi):170km (105 miles) north of Malé. There are eight resorts.

12. Thaa Atoll (also known as Kolhumadulu Atoll): 200km (125 miles) southwest of Malé.

There's only one resort.

13. Shaviyani Atoll (also known as Miladhunmadulu Uthurubri): 210km (130 miles) north-west of Malé. A large atoll in the north, there are two resorts.

14. Laamu Atoll (also known as Haddhunmathi Atoll): 250km (160 miles) south of Malé.

There are two resorts.

15. Haa Dhaalu Atoll (also known as Thiladhunmathi Dhekunuburi): 270km (170 miles) northwest of Malé. Includes the natural atoll of Makunudhoo. There are two resorts.

16. Haa Alifu Atoll (also known as Thiladhunmathi Uthuruburi): 300km (190 miles) northwest of Malé. The northern most atoll of the Maldives. There are two resorts.

17. North Huvadhu Atoll (also known as Gaafu Alifu) :370km (230 miles) south of Malé. Includes half of the natural atoll of Huvadhu. There are six resorts.  

18. South Huvadhu Atoll (also known as Gaafu Dhaalu): 420km (260 miles) south of Malé and just 500km from the equator. Includes Kaadedhdhoo and Maavarulu Airports to facilitate domestic transfers to and from Malé. There are currently no seaplane transfers to this atoll. There are two resorts.

19. Gnaviyani Atoll (also know as Fuvahmulah): 500km (300 miles) south of Malé and the first Maldivian atoll south of the equator. There are no tourist resorts.

20. Addu Atoll (formerly known as Seenu Atoll). 540km (330 miles) south of Male.

The southern-most atoll in the Maldives. Gan International Airport, connecting Malé and Addu City. There are two resorts.

Most travellers visit the central tolls with Male at the centre (the top 5 listed above). Travel to the southern and northern atolls can be slow and sea planes are the easiest (by no means cheap) way to get there.

The Maldives are tropical, with plenty of sunshine and temperatures around 26.4°C (79.52°F) to 31.5°C (88.7°F) throughout the year. However, rainfall increases considerably during the April-October southwest monsoon, particularly from June to October and particularly in the north.

History, Politics and Economy

The name comes from the Arabic al-Mahal: palace + Sanskrit dvipa: island. Formerly a Sultanate under Dutch and British protection, the Maldives are now a republic. Long ruled over with an iron fist by President Gayoom, who did not hesitate to jail dissidents and was re-elected five times in more or less rigged elections, resistance to his rule culminated in violent rioting in 2003 and 2004. Under international pressure, free and fair elections were finally held in 2008, and the president gracefully conceded defeat. It hasn’t been smooth, but the current president Solih is showing promise.

The Tsunami of 26 December 2004 caused extensive damage to the Maldives - of a population of only 290,000, over a third was directly affected by the tsunami and more than 15,000 people were left homeless. The economic damage alone was over 62% of the GDP. More than USD400 million was received in aid.  The Maldives was closed for a very short time during COVID and emerged with less impact than many other tourist destinations.

Non-resort islands of the Maldives have only been open to travellers since 2009 and it wasn’t really until 2015 that independent travellers really started to come here. Chinese and European tourists make up a high proportion of the 1.8 million visitors that come to the Maldives each year. Most stay on the resort islands.

The current population is around 500,000 with thousands of seasonal workers in hospitality, mostly from Bangladesh. Chinese ‘friendship’ is evident in the “China Friendship Bridge” between Male and Hulumale and in the large-scale building projects.  The Maldives is caught in the middle of the military and economic aspirations of India and China in the Indian Ocean.

People, Culture and Language

Maldivians are lovely people who are proud of their heritage. They are entirely Sunni Muslim, and the local culture is a mixture of South Indian, Sinhalese, and Arab influences. Maldivian men look a little different (it is harder to tell with the women as most are covered).  The men are slightly taller with dark curly hair (which they often wear long or in a bun) and with a beard.

Alcohol, pork, dogs, and public observance of non-Muslim religions are banned on the inhabited islands. Men and women cover up their shoulders and above the knees. Women also wear head covers. In respect to the Muslim culture, you can’t swim just anywhere in your swimmers. You’ll need to go to a designated tourist beach (usually known as a bikini beach).  Off the beach you can wear beach wear (shorts and short dresses) but its best to be modest. When you go into your guest house, shop, or any building on the local islands, you need to remove your shoes. Alcohol is not actually illegal in the Maldives, it’s just highly regulated.  The resorts are allowed to exist in a ‘bubble’ outside these cultural expectations. Some local islands do have floating bars (boats) moored “offshore” for tourists.

Dhivehi is the national language of the Maldives and has been shaped by Arabic, French, Portuguese, Persian and English.

• Hello – Assalaamu alaikum

• Yes – Aan

• No – Noon

• Please – Adhes kohfa

• Thank you – Shukuriyaa

• You’re welcome – Maruhabaa

• Excuse me – Ma-aaf kurey

• I’m sorry – Ma-aafu kurey

• Goodbye – Dhanee

• Good morning – Baajjaveri hendhuneh

• Good night – Baajjaveri reygande

• Do you speak English? – Ingireysin vaahaka dhakkan ingeytha?

• How much does it cost? – Meege agakee kobaa?

Travel Highlights

The Maldives has so many amazing things to see. It is all about sun, beaches, and nature. Here are the top things to do and see in these stunning islands.

1.     Diving. If you are into diving people suggest the Baa Atoll, specifically Hanifaru Bay, which is renowned worldwide for the largest seasonal gatherings of manta rays (May to November), and the Blue Hole which is a coral-lined underwater chimney that narrows from 22 metres to seven metres and has amazing marine life.

2.     Snorkelling: If you are into snorkelling there are so many places. Many islands have house reefs (right off the beach), and all have stunning coral gardens a short trip from where you stay. They say that Male Atoll and Ari Atoll have lots of the well know snorkelling lagoons.

3.     Beautiful Beaches: I’ve placed the beaches in the Maldives above any I have seen from Tahiti to Thailand, Fiji, and Bali. Not just for the clarity and colour of the water and the purity and softness of the powder white sand but for the sheer number of them! Hundreds of islands and lagoons all as stunning as each other. There is an island experience for every taste and budget.

4.     Surfing: Surfers know the places to go and now recognise the Maldives are not as inaccessible as they once thought. Thulusdhoo is one of the top islands.

5.     Wildlife: You don’t have to hunt it out. It’s right there. From the amazing mantra rays swimming beside you on the beach to bird life, fish life like nowhere else in the world.

6.     Island Life: The local people are lovely, and the island communities are all a part of the experience.

 Top 10 Travel Tips

1.     Plan your trip around the activities that you want to do, the type of island you want and how far you want to travel.  For example, do you want to be snorkelling from the beach, dive with Whale Sharks or see rays and turtles from the beach.  Or you like small islands you can walk around but with limited facilities or larger islands with a bigger tourist infrastructure. Are you after the best beaches? Different islands are known for different things. You can’t possibly see every island. You have to find a way to narrow it down.

2.     Move within one atoll. There are long distances between atolls and remember the Maldivian islands stretch nearly 1000km and many are not that dissimilar unless you have a specific interest. Ferries will be your biggest cost if you are doing multiple islands and as the quickest and cheapest ferries are arranged around atolls, it make sense to stay in one area.  If you change atolls, you will have come back into Male unless you book an expensive private speed boat. 

3.     The Maldives is a Muslim country.  There are rules about what to wear on the local islands and the sale and drinking of alcohol is heavily regulated. The weekend in the Maldives is Friday and Saturday, during which banks, government offices and many shops are closed. Even food places may close over lunchtime for prayers. You won't notice this on the resorts but plan your trip accordingly as travel on the ‘weekend’ is very restricted (especially cheap travel).

4.      A few islands do not have piers, and most have sand only paths or roads, so travel light and ditch the wheelie bag unless you can carry it. Saying that there is a massive plan for new harbours on all islands and many have smart new paved piers. The good things is that most hotels will meet you at the pier with a wheelbarrow (not for you, for your bags) or a tuk-tuk.

5.     You’ll need cash to use the public ferries and lots of other things. The cash is mostly US $ which are generally accepted alongside the local currency, the Rufiyaa (2 prices on the menu). There are 96 ATMs in the Maldives, but there are 187 inhabited islands, so that means that some of the smaller islands don’t have ATM’s. So, bring $US with you and check your hotel takes card or prepay. 

6. You must complete the digital immigration form (IMUGA) online for free in the 96 hours before you arrive in the Maldives and again before you leave. It will show as done when they scan your passport, so you don’t actually need to present it.

7.     The best time to visit the Maldives is during the dry season, between November and April. December and January are peak season. You’ll get lower prices, less boats, and rougher seas from May to October.

8.     There are mosquitos on the local islands.  This is NOT a malarial area, but there is dengue fever and chikungunya. There are sandflies also, so bring repellent.

9.     The Maldives is famous for Manta Rays (also called Sea Devils) which can be seen on most islands (not usually from the beach). They reach a length of 4.5 meters and a weight of 1-3 tons and the mantas form a sort of tusk. They live in flocks of several dozen and are migratory covering distances of thousands of kilometers.

10.     The only foods that the Maldives is self-sufficient in is fish.  Expect fish on all dishes, but the menus here are remarkably diverse – you can pretty much get everything at a price. I’m not a lover of curry and had no trouble with a great bowl of fried rice, noodles, or tomato pasta. Prices vary from island to island.

Travel Practicalities

The islands in the Maldives are sand islands and the main attraction are the reefs and small islands.  Unlike some islands where the reefs are a long way offshore, the Maldives has many “house reefs” directly of the beach. There are even better reefs and snorkelling if you take a small boat trip, so plan for that.

Money and Budget

If you’re planning on staying only on local islands in the Maldives and staying in basic, but good accommodation with private bathrooms (there are no hostels in the Maldives), and using mainly the public ferries to travel between the islands then you can figure on spending a minimum US$120 a couple per day ( Accommodation $70  for a double room, food $50 for one main and one light meal for 2 people, $20 as an average extra for snorkelling trips and $10 for local ferries). If you dive add $85 per person per dive. If you travel on speedboats add US$40 per person per leg (obviously cheaper if you are within one atoll) that means US$ 80 per person to go into Male and out again on another boat. If you want to visit a resort island for the day, add another US$150 per person all-inclusive of meals and boat transfer. That is without staying there which can be $600 to $10,000 a night on accommodation based on two sharing a room with a private bathroom.  So, you can see the extras add up. We used mainly used speed boats, visited 3 islands, and hopped to 2 others.  We had to go back to Male twice and out again. We snorkelled not dived and only did one boat trip to the sand islands. Over the 2 weeks stay added another$50 a day to our coupled budget making our daily budget US$170 a couple per day.

There are a few extra charges in Maldives like a tourist tax and green tax on the local islands. They are around $6/day on top of your bill at your guest house, something that the government has included and can’t be avoided and is meant to go to the environmental protection of the individual island.18% is added to food bills but that usually is included in the price.

Everything is priced in US$ and the local currency, Rufiyaa. It often works out better value to pay in US$ but bring some local currency with you if you want to buy stuff at the local shop like drinks or ice cream. We only changed US$100 into local currency but after we paid, often go our change in local currency, so it built up quickly.  Remember, there isn’t any ATMS on some of the local islands. This is changing and you can see new ATMs appearing on many islands.  Most guest houses will have a credit card machine but check with your guest house before you arrive.

The Rufiyaa from Maldives is a closed currency, meaning that you cannot get it outside the country. Make sure you spend all your Rufiyaa before leaving the country. If you book accommodation prepaying is a GREAT way for you to save on charges, as all the places we had to pay locally added a 3.5 % credit/debit card charge.  They’re just passing on the charges from the credit card company, but it’s something you should be aware of.

Unofficial money changers will approach you and offer a slightly better rate. They are often at the airport or hotel. We used them.

 Visas and getting in and out.

Practically all visitors arrive at Velana International Airport located on Hulhulé Island, a manmade island right next to the city island of Male. There are no regular passenger boats to the Maldives. Even yachts usually steer clear, the reefs are dangerous, and permits are expensive.

All nationalities can get a visa on arrival for 30 days. You do need to complete your arrival and departure forms electronically within the 96hours before you arrive (or they expire). You will need an online photo, a copy of your passport and flight and hotel booking details.   It’s here  Simple to do online and linked to your passport once they scan it at the airport. You do get QR code emailed to you to show at the airport if you need it. There is Internet at the airport if you don’t have your arrival form done beforehand (the internet didn’t work when we were there and those without the paperwork were taken aside for processing).

Getting to Male:

There is a taxi US$5-10 from the airport to Male and a Ferry ($1,50- 15 mins). Both go from immediately across the road from the arrivals. Turn left and the Male- Airport ferry will be on the right. Keep going a bit further and the taxi rank is on the left. The ferry ends at the MTCC Ferry Terminal where the island public ferries go from. Remember, all public ferries in the Maldives are CASH only.

Getting to Hulmale hotels: About $5-10 but your hotel will arrange it.

Getting to the islands:

If you are on a local ferry you need to get to MTCC in Male by taxi or ferry as shown above. If you are on a speed boat, they leave directly from the airport right in front of you when you exit arrivals. There is a thatched smokers hut on the corner and most speed boats come and go from the left of that (before the local ferry). The specific resort speed boats seem to collect their guests from inside and walk them to the boats (mostly to the right of the smoker’s hut) Some ferries will send you inside the terminal to a numbered booth to ‘check in’, others will just ask you to watch for the named boat. They turn around quickly so keep an eye out at the agreed time. They are usually on time.

Remember the new airport opens in 2024- its next door, but you may have to walk from the other direction or a bit further.

Food and Eating

There’s not a huge choice of restaurants on the local islands –lots of fish and rice and good curries. The local breakfast is a mix of tuna and coconut and roshi (like roti) and guest houses serve continental breakfasts. The Maldives does have Hedhikaa, which means small snacks or short eats. Like tapas you’ll be served several different bite-sized snacks.

Electricity, Technology and Communication

The voltage in Maldives is the same as in the UK, and Central Europe (230 Volts) electric plug and socket types C, D, G, J, K and L. This is a HUGE variety of plugs and sockets that can be used in the Maldives but Type G (UK Style) socket that is by far the most common.

We travel with an international e sim (Airalo) which for a first DOES NOT include the Maldives. We had good WIFI in all of our hotels and most places we ate.  There is limited free WIFI in Male.

Places to Stay

There’s a huge variety in quality and value for accommodation in the Maldives. Our 3-star family run hotels were as to be expected (tiles floors, private bathroom with simple fittings, a communal eating area- with sand floors, dated but clean furniture and small reception).

For $150 each you can visit a resort, which includes the speedboat and entry into the resort for an all-inclusive deal. You can get a taste of the other side of the Maldives.

Getting Around

In a nation with 1,192 islands, you can imagine that you will spend a lot of time on boats. The cheapest way to travel around the Maldives is to use the Public Ferry Transport system (US$2-10) but sometimes days and times don’t line up to connect you to other islands so you may well end up on the shared speed boats (US$20-45 depending in distance- work on US$ 25/hr of the trip). Both have set times and prices. We suggest hopping the short legs on local boats when you can to the end of the “line” of islands you are visiting and catch the speed boat for the longer leg back into Male.

If you are using the public ferries get the public ferry map as different ferries are in different sectors. The boats are large, usually wooden Dhows.  They’re clean, have wooden sometimes padded side seats and plastic centre seats, roll down blinds or large windows and loud diesel smelling engines. The attendant drops blinds to block sun and rain as needed. In Male you buy tickets at the ticket office. In the islands you buy tickets on the boat.

The shared speedboats are often booked through you hotel (you may need cash to do this) or you can book them online here. 

Travel Itineraries

The hardest part of planning our trip was choosing which island. We spent 3 days on each island but 2 might be enough unless you want special side or day trips. It does depend on what you want to do. We wanted lovely beaches and small, quiet, and accessible islands with well-priced small hotels.  Once our criteria was set, we planned 3 routes, all in the central atolls so that we could travel by ferry of speedboat.

Circle 1: Southeast- Maafushi and Fuildhoo

They are on the same public ferry route.

Maafushi

Maafushi is in the Kaafu atoll and was the first local island to introduce tourism.  It is 27 kms away from the Male and covers an area of approximately 1270 x 265 m. It’s the biggest and busiest. But that’s busy in Maldivian island standards.  If you’ve travelled at all in Asia, then it’s very similar to the smaller, quieter Malaysian, Indonesian, and Thai islands a decade or so ago.  Remember all the islands are small. This is one of the cheapest islands to visit in the Maldives and has a wide range of water sport options. Still no night life and quiet after dark.

The ferry to Fulidhoo stops on the way after 2 hrs. You can get on here after your stay and continue to Fulidhoo.

Fulidhoo

Fulidhoo (pronounced Fully-do) is in the Vaavu Atoll, 57km (1,5 hrs by speedboat and 3,5 hrs by local ferry) from Male. At only 700m x 200m and with only 300 permanent residents. There is NO ATM on Fulidhoo, and several cafes do NOT accept cards. There is a school and a small medical centre, a mosque, and several small convenience shops. There are no streets just sand paths and no cars, just electric bikes and small tuk-tuk trailers.  This is a small quiet island and one you can walk around in 30 mins, there is a house reef off the beach and stingrays in the warm shallows. Probably our personal favourite as it is so small.

Circle 2: West- Rashdoo, Ukulhas and Mathiveri.

They are on the same speedboat route and again you have local transport options in between islands.

Rashdoo

Rasdhoo is approximately 500×600 m. Almost the entire territory of the island is built up with a population of 1200 locals. It is the capital of Alif Alif Atoll and the village, occupies the majority of the island. It has a good beach for snorkelling and kayaking but has lots of dead coral so not as good for swimming. During the season it’s packed with people. The draw here is the amazing snorkelling in the house reef.

Speed Boat: US$35 – 1 hour.

Refcool Marine has a website you can pre-book tickets which is unusual as often it’s just pay on arrival and hope not too many people arrive.

Ferry: US$4 – 3 hours

The ferry route is the 303 (Aa. Thoddoo – Male City), and it departs from Male on Mondays and Thursdays at 9am, and leaves Rasdhoo on Wednesdays and Sundays at 11am.

Seaplane: US$280 – 15 minutes

Ukulhas

Ukulhas (pronounced oo- cool-us) is in the Alif Alif Atoll 71km from Male. It is perfect for those wanting an in between island. It has a touristy vibe and there are a few restaurants to choose. But it is also small enough to get a good local vibe. The beach is also beautiful here.

There are less than 1000 residents, and the island is only about 0.25 sq. km, with the widest point being only 200m. Ukulhas also boasts a kilometer-long white sandy beach.  Bodu Magu, the island’s main road from east to west, is lined with a few grocery stores catering to everyday needs. There is a new ATM near the pier.  Your hotel will collect you in a tuk-tuk trailer and take you to your hotel.

The Coral ferry goes either directly to Ukulhas or via Rasdhoo. $15 (20 mins between the 2 if you don’t go direct).

Mathiveri

The island is tiny (about 480×300). The entire island is a village. There are 3 beaches, local beach, stingray beach and bikini beach. Off the local beach is a picnic island you can swim to. Watch for the strong current. The house reef is a part of a marine park so well protected. ne Popular snorkelling excursion are to “Shark Point” or “Manta Ray Point”.

This is the end of the line and ferries go back to Ukalas and Rashdoo to Male.

Day trips or side trips are possible to Thoddo.

Thoddoo is a bit different as it’s an agricultural hub and not actually a part of an atoll. It is a larger island and takes a while to walk across or around the island. There are lots tracks through farmland, with all sorts of tropical fruit plants, especially papaya and at the right time of the year watermelon (they’re planted at the beginning of Ramadan). There are two bikini beaches on opposite sides of the island. The west is the busier and perfect for sunset (lots of fruit bats and lizards).  The northeast has less people. All hotels are in the town not the beach and there is farmland all around. Beaches are as nice as Ukulhas, but the bikini beach is smaller. There are lots of empty stretches of coastline, but you have to get in and out of the water to walk around (not in swimmers remember).

Circle 3: Thulusdoo and Dhiffushi- north

Thulusdoo

Thulusdoo is in the Kaafu Atoll 30 Km from Male. There are lots of water sports trips here and a bigger island where you might can rent a bicycle to get around( most guest house have them). It has real (not paved) roads and cars. It is known for its surfing and the Coca-Cola factory (allows short tours).  You can see the community in action. It is very clean. There’s a floating bar that you can get to by speedboat.  The island is being eroded so you will see break walls lining many parts of the coastline and mini break walls in front of some of the beaches to protect them. You can walk around the island in an hour but it is not aon the beach as you kick in with the break walls and pass the port and working areas of the island. The drawcard here is the surfing in season and the sand island tours ($35 pp -2hrs)

·     Gasfinolhu: Closest sand bank to Thulusdhoo

·     ChikAna: 20 minutes away and it only appears at the lowest tide.

·     Asdu: 30 minutes from Thulusdhoo Island, boasting a beautiful reef around it.

·     Infinity: 15 minutes away with a stretch of sand only appearing at the low tide.

The bikini beach is small and nothing special (it is quiet) and is being compromised ny the series of break walls being built to protect it. The best beaches are Sunset beach (not officially a bikini beach) which is a small spit and Dream beach (beside it), on the other side of the island and a 15 min walk. A lot had been washed away so they were working to rebuild it when we were here (2024). Both have coral free white sand beach strips but little shade and no infrastructure. There is an ATM. Town has a number of convenience stores.

Getting there:

PUBLIC FERRY- Departure point: Fish market Departure time: 1500. Returning 0730

Duration: 90 mins Stops: 01 (Himmufashi) 02 Hurra. Price: US$3 per person. Pre-booking is not required as the ticket to Fulidhoo can be purchased at the counter.

SPEEDBOAT: US$30 PP one way-. 5 hrs.  4 daily departures (1100,1600,1700,2000) outside the airport arrivals gate on the River Speed. It returns (0730,800,1430,2030)

Dhiffushi

36,6 km northeast of Male, 8km from Thulusdhoo. The island is small (950 m x 200m). Approximately 1200 people live here. There are two bikini beaches on the island – one on the northern part of the island, a small one, and the second slightly bigger ( a bit of ocean wash rubbish) on the opposite side of the island. Near the beach can be algae. The southern tip of the beach has a great reef for snorkelling with living reef. The house reef is about 100 meters out in calf-deep water. There is an ATM on Dhiffushi. Dhiffushi has one of the largest lagoons in Maldives and some of the best sandbanks.

Male and Hulmale

We ended our trip back in Male before we flew out.We stayed in Hulmale like most travellers and actually found it nice. There is no Bikini beach but a string of nice hotels and places to eat along Hulmale beach. There is a few small shopping centres, a park in the centre of the island and a canal half way up the island that divides the island in half. There is a lot of construction for local accomodation over the canal.

Male

Male is the capital city of the Maldives and you will start and end your journey here. Around 200,000 people (nearly half of the Maldives) lives in Male, which is high rise and densely populated. It is linked to the mostly man-made island of Hulhumale, where the airport is located by the China Friendship Bridge.  It’s around $10-15 for a taxi between Male or a hotel on Hulhumale and the airport.  Taxis are out the front of the airport (agree on the price before you get in) or your hotel will arrange a taxi for you. Most hotels include a paid transfer, and someone meets you with a hotel sign. The airport is being rebuilt and opens later in 2024.

Accommodation

The airport is on Hulhumale which is where most travellers stay as it is slightly closer to the airport (in the opposite direction) and has a more island less city feel. There is a ferry between the 2 but most people use the relatively cheap taxis.

Activities

1.     Visit the fish Market:  Near the main street of Jumhooree Maidan, the fish market is the heart of the Maldivian fishing industry. You can see fishermen carrying their catch (probably tuna) across the street. Next to the fish market is the only fruit market in the country with mango, papaya, guava, bananas, watermelon, coconuts, and dried fish.

2.     Walk: Male was where the Maldivian kings lived for 900 years. Walk along the Boduthakurufaanu Magu - named after the king who defeated the Portuguese in the 16th century, and then through Sultan Park to Jumhooree Maidan (republic square), that marks the Sultanate's finale in 1968. See National Museum, the 17th century Hukuru Miskiiy Mosque, and Muleeaage the presidential residence.

3.     Stingray Feeding point.

4.     Tsunami Memorial

5.     Go to the Beach: Running along the eastern side of the island, Henveiru is undoubtedly the most scenic of the four beaches of Malé. The neighbourhood is filled with cafes and restaurants.

So, our time comes to an end. We have loved our time on the glorious Maldives and have plans to visit a few more islands when we make another detour to this beautiful place. We hope to see you there!

Annie

PS:

Travel Resources and Sites I found useful

https://islandii.com/fulidhoo/