Bali: Beyond Kuta

🌺 A Little About Bali

Bali has an incredible ability to offer something for everyone. For many young Australians, it’s the party life and shopping of Kuta that draws them in. For Europeans, it’s the exotic culture, luxurious spas, and stunning beaches. Surfers adore it, and after more than 50 years, it remains a true backpacker’s mecca.

We first backpacked here nearly 40 years ago and still find ourselves returning often as we pass through. For us, Bali is familiar yet ever‑changing — a place where we discover something new every single visit. This post highlights some of Bali’s best experiences, whether you have just a few days to explore or want to string them together into a longer circuit around this beautiful island.

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📍 Location, Geography & Climate

Bali is one of Indonesia’s 17,508 islands. Indonesia is the largest and most populated country in Southeast Asia, home to more than 275 million people and stretching across the Equator in a vast tropical archipelago.

• Best time to visit: May to September (dry season).

• Best time for surfing: March to May (shoulder season, before peak crowds).

• Wet season: October to March, with short tropical showers — usually in the afternoons and evenings.

• Wettest month: January.

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🕰️ History, Politics & Economy

Over a thousand years ago, the Balinese developed sophisticated rice‑terrace irrigation systems and a well‑organised social structure. Portuguese explorers arrived in 1512, followed by the Dutch, who established the Dutch East India Company. During World War II, Bali was occupied by Japan.

• 1946: Bali became part of the State of East Indonesia.

• 1949: Bali officially joined the Republic of Indonesia.

• 1960s–1990s: Indonesia experienced rapid economic growth, though poverty — especially in rural areas — remains a challenge.

• 1999: The country held its first democratic elections in more than 40 years and has maintained its democracy since.

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🧡 People, Culture & Language

Indonesia is the world’s most populous Muslim country, but Bali is unique: most Balinese people follow Balinese Hinduism, a rich blend of Hindu, Buddhist, and local traditions. The Balinese are culturally related to the peoples of Malaysia and Oceania.

Indonesia is also wonderfully multilingual:

• More than 300 languages are spoken across the country.

• Most Indonesians speak Bahasa Indonesia as a common national language.

• In Bali, you’ll also hear Balinese spoken widely.

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🗣️ Helpful Indonesian Phrases

• Good morning: Selamat pagi

• Good afternoon: Selamat siang

• Good evening: Selamat sore

• Good night: Selamat malam

• Excuse me, sir/ma’am: Permisi, Pak/Bu

• Goodbye: Sampai jumpa

• This one, please: Yang ini

• Thank you: Terima kasih / Makasih

• Can you make it cheaper?: Boleh sedikit lebih murah?

• Okay, I’ll take it: Oke, saya ambil yang ini

🌴 Travel Highlights of Bali

Bali truly has it all — culture, beaches, food, nature, spirituality, adventure, and some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet. After 40 years of visiting (and more than 150 countries under our belts), these are some of the highlights we keep returning to. I’ve chosen a favourite in each category… or at least tried to!

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1. The People

Gentle, kind, and endlessly hospitable, the Balinese remain some of the most beautiful people we’ve met anywhere in the world. Their warmth is a huge part of what keeps travellers coming back.

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2. Temples

Choosing one is impossible, so here are three standouts:

• Pura Ulun Danu Bratan — A picture‑perfect water temple on Lake Bratan in the island’s northwest. One of Bali’s most photographed spots.

• Pura Pasar Agung — Rebuilt after the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, this temple sits among lava fields near Selat and Sebudi, with breathtaking views of the volcano.

• Pura Tanah Lot — A 16th‑century temple perched on a rock offshore. Sunset here is unforgettable. Legend says a high priest fled Java to escape the spread of Islam and founded the temple on this spot.

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3. Beaches

Bali’s beaches vary wildly — volcanic, white sand, surf breaks, snorkelling coves. A few favourites:

• East Bali: Amed and Jemeluk (great snorkelling, smooth rocks, sunsets over the volcano).

• West Bali: Yeh Leh and Baliana (dramatic volcanic ash beaches).

• South Bali: Kuta, Sanur, Tegal Wangi, Bingin, Padang Padang, Thomas, Melasti, Balangan, Suluban, Nunggalan, Green Bowl, Gunung Payung — each with its own personality.

• Nusa Penida: Kelingking, Crystal Bay, Suwehan, Nyanyad, Atuh, Diamond, Tembeling, Puyung — some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in Indonesia.

Note: The Gili Islands have stunning beaches too, but they belong to Lombok, not Bali.

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4. Fire Dancing (Kecak)

The famous Kecak fire dance began in the 1930s in the village of Bona, inspired by older ritual dances and Hindu legends. No instruments — just chanting, rhythm, and fire. Mesmerising.

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5. Ancient Sites

Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) — An 11th‑century archaeological site south of Ubud. Discovered in 1922, with a thousand‑year‑old statue guarding the entrance.

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6. Dolphins

Lovina Beach in the north is the classic spot, though more commercial than it once was. Turtle Island near Sanur also offers sightings, but expect crowds.

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7. Shopping

From markets to boutiques — enough said!

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8. Rice Fields

The drive from Antosari to Pupuan (via Belimbing and Sanda) offers some of Bali’s most beautiful rice terraces. Ubud also has many, though increasingly commercialised.

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9. Kuta

Not for everyone, but undeniably iconic. A rite of passage for many travellers.

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10. Monkey Forests

Not my favourite (I’m scared of monkeys!), but Bali has several:

Padangtegal (Ubud), Alas Kedaton (Tabanan), and Sangeh. Approach with caution — they are cheeky.

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11. Food

• Babi Guling — Bali’s famous roast suckling pig, marinated in herbs and turmeric and cooked over wood.

• Satay Ayam — Not unique to Bali, but beautifully spiced here.

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12. Turtle Hatching

At Reef Seen Divers Resort near Pemuteran in the north, you can help release baby turtles into the sea — a memorable experience.

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13. Barong Dance & Masks

The Barong dance, performed during Hindu festivals, features the iconic Barong masks. Daily performances are held for visitors.

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14. Surfing

Bali is a world‑class surf destination. I’ll leave the details to the surfers — I still don’t know one end of a surfboard from the other!

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15. Nyepi — The Day of Silence

Held in March or April, Nyepi is a 24‑hour period of complete silence and darkness across the island. No flights, no lights, no going outside. The day before is full of noise and fireworks to scare away spirits. The day after marks Saka New Year.

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16. Waterfalls

Gitgit is the highest waterfall in Bali and flows year‑round, though most impressive in the rainy season. There are many others scattered across the island, each with its own charm.

Travel Tips

1. Get off the main routes

Bali welcomes millions of visitors each year, and some areas have become full‑blown party zones. The real beauty of the island is often just a short taxi ride away from Kuta. Don’t judge Bali by its busiest beach — there is so much more to discover. But go soon… tourism is spreading fast.

2. Remember Bali is conservative

Despite the holiday vibe, Bali is culturally conservative. Many tourists forget this. Women must cover shoulders and knees in temples, and modest dress in public is respectful. Locals may not say anything, but inappropriate behaviour can cause offence.

3. Traffic can be horrendous

Peak times (6–8am and 4–7pm) can be gridlocked, and roads often stay busy until 10am as day‑trippers head out. Always allow extra time to get anywhere — especially to the airport.

4. Clarify prices for everything

Transport prices vary wildly. Blue Bird taxis use meters and have an app; otherwise, agree on the fare before getting in. In markets, prices are rarely displayed — decide what you’re willing to pay and ask politely. Always check menus before sitting down.

5. Bali is still developing

Indonesia has significant poverty, especially in rural areas. Don’t be surprised by the contrast between tourist zones and local life.

6. Be cautious with scooters and rentals

Many travellers hire scooters — even though insurance often doesn’t cover accidents unless you hold the correct licence. Scams do occur, so photograph any vehicle before taking it and never leave your passport as security. A reputable driver costs around USD $50–70 for a full day (up to eight hours), which is a safe and easy alternative.

7. Watch for money scams

Learn the local notes and always count your cash. ATM skimming happens occasionally — use machines at banks or large hotels. Violent crime is rare, but petty theft and scams exist. Road accidents (especially on self‑driven motorbikes) are the most common cause of injury for foreigners.

8. Negotiate — always

Bargaining is part of daily life in Bali. It’s not rude; it’s expected. Smile, be polite, and enjoy the process.

9. Water and rubbish issues

Tap water quality varies, bottled water creates waste, and waterways can be littered. While we can’t solve the problem, we can reduce our impact — refill bottles where possible and dispose of rubbish responsibly.

10. Consider visiting in the rainy season

Bali’s rainy season (October–April) can be a wonderful time to visit. Showers are often brief, prices drop, everything is lush and green, and the crowds thin out. The weather stays warm, and you’ll experience a calmer, more local Bali.

Travel Practicalities

💰 Money & Budget

Bali is still excellent value for money. The post‑COVID price surge that hit many destinations hasn’t really reached here. Credit cards usually attract a 3% surcharge, which adds up quickly — I try not to think about how much the banks make from that!

ATMs are plentiful, often located in secure areas with guards. Licensed money changers are common and usually offer competitive rates. The airport has improved a lot, but queues can still be long and the Wi‑Fi patchy. As you exit, you’ll find money changers, taxis, and drivers holding signs for pre‑arranged pickups.

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🛂 Visas & Arrival

Indonesia currently requires an e‑visa for most travellers.

• Cost: USD $52 for a single entry.

• The official website can be unreliable, so some travellers use agents (who charge around $50 extra).

• If you don’t have the e‑visa, you can queue for a Visa on Arrival instead.

• With the e‑visa, you can use the electronic gates, which are much faster.

There is also a USD $16 arrival tax added to all tickets from March 2024. This was meant to replace the visa… but at the moment, both are required.

You’ll also need a separate e‑customs form with a QR code to show at customs. You can complete it online or at airport kiosks.

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🍜 Food & Eating

Bali has every cuisine imaginable, but the local dishes are well worth trying:

• Babi guling — Bali’s famous spit‑roasted suckling pig, seasoned with herbs and turmeric. Rare outside Bali due to Indonesia’s Muslim majority.

• Nasi goreng — Fried rice with a fried egg on top.

• Mie goreng — Stir‑fried noodles.

• Pisang goreng — Deep‑fried banana in batter.

• Sate ayam — Chicken satay grilled over coals.

• Laklak — A sweet Balinese rice‑flour cake, usually white or green, often eaten for breakfast.

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🔌 Electricity, Technology & Communication

Bali uses the European-style 2‑pin plug (Type C/F) with 220V voltage. Most guesthouses have adapters if you ask.

Internet is generally good, and cafés almost always have Wi‑Fi. My Airalo international eSIM worked well throughout the island.

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🏨 Places to Stay

Bali has some of the best accommodation value in Asia. Hospitality is exceptional, and small family‑run guesthouses are often the real gems.

We usually stay in guesthouses for around USD $40 per night for a double room. Most include:

• A pool in a lush courtyard

• Breakfast

• TV, safe, toiletries, drinking water

• Help with onward travel (taxis, tickets, ferries)

Larger hotels can be hit‑and‑miss in quality, but Bali also has stunning resorts at a fraction of the cost of Europe, the USA, or Australia.

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🚕 Getting Around

Bali is easy to navigate, with plenty of transport options:

• Drivers: Around USD $80 for a full day of sightseeing.

• Taxis: Affordable; Blue Bird is the most reliable.

• Scooters: About USD $5 per day, but think carefully — they are the leading cause of tourist injuries and deaths.

• Ferries: Improving every year, with better organisation and visible life jackets.

• Local buses: Cheap and easy if you have time.

• Rental cars: Possible, but traffic and parking make them less convenient.

• Trains: None on the island.

Travel Itineraries

🌏 Planning Your Bali Circuit

Each of these regions makes a wonderful stand‑alone stop for a few days, and all are easily accessible from Denpasar. We often spend time here “on the way through,” as Bali is such an easy first stop from Australia. You can link these areas into a circuit lasting anywhere from two weeks to a month or more. I’ve divided them into regions to give you a starting point. Personally, I love the north and centre of Bali — quieter, greener, and full of surprises. At the end of this post, I’ve listed some of the travel blogs I trust.

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🌴 The South: Seminyak, Uluwatu & Canggu (4 days)

Travel

Close to the airport and Kuta, but far more relaxed. Flying into Denpasar doesn’t mean you need to stay in Denpasar — a short taxi ride takes you to Seminyak or Canggu, which are nicer bases.

Orientation

This area is Bali’s most developed, with beaches, cafés, nightlife, and easy access to temples and cultural sites.

Accommodation

Endless options — from boutique villas to guesthouses to large resorts.

Activities

• Tanah Lot Temple — A dramatic sea temple perched on a rock, surrounded by water at high tide.

• Uluwatu Temple — Cliff‑top temple famous for its Kecak fire dance at 5:45pm and 7pm.

• Nusa Dua Beach — Calm, clean, and great for swimming.

• Garuda Kencana Cultural Park — Evening dance performance at 6:30pm.

• Sanur Beach — Gentle waves and a long beachfront path.

• Kuta Beach — Iconic, busy, and great for people‑watching.

• Jimbaran Beach — Beautiful around the Belmond and Four Seasons area.

• Gunung Kawi Monument — A historic site often visited en route to Tanah Lot.

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🌿 The North: Munduk, Mt Batur, Mt Agung & Sidemen (7–8 days)

🌄 Munduk (2 days)

Travel

About 2.5 hours from Ubud.

Orientation

Many people visit Munduk as a day trip, but staying here lets you enjoy the cooler mountain air, waterfalls, coffee plantations, and viewpoints without rushing.

Accommodation

Plenty of guesthouses and small mountain lodges.

Activities

• Ulun Danu Bratan — A stunning water temple on Lake Bratan. Entrance: 50,000 IDR.

• Waterfalls — Banyumala Twin, Munduk Waterfall, and others within 30 minutes of each other. Sekumpul is the most dramatic (half‑day trip).

• Swings & Viewpoints — Twin Lake viewpoints with swings, bridges, and cafés.

• Handara Gate — A famous photo stop at the entrance to a golf course.

• Coffee Plantations — Munduk Moding Plantation is a working plantation with beautiful views.

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🌋 Mt Batur Area (2 days)

Travel

About 1 hour from Ubud.

Orientation

Mount Batur (1717m) is an active volcano, last erupting in 2000. The area is known for sunrise hikes, hot springs, and dramatic landscapes.

Accommodation

Hotels, villas, and glamping options around Lake Batur, especially in Kintamani.

Activities

• Sunrise Hike — A 2‑hour guided climb leaving at 2am. Best visibility April–October.

• Hot Springs — Geothermal pools at the base of the volcano. Batur Natural Hot Spring is popular.

• Pura Segara Ulun — A peaceful floating temple on Lake Batur. Donation entry.

• Pinggan Viewpoint — A farming village with spectacular sunrise views over the volcano.

• Lava Fields — Explore the black lava from the 1968 eruption.

• Coffee Plantations — Fertile volcanic soil produces excellent coffee. Be aware of civet‑coffee farms that cage animals.

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🗻 Mt Agung Area (2 days)

Travel

Accessible from Ubud, Sidemen, and the east coast.

Orientation

Mount Agung is Bali’s highest and most sacred mountain (over 3000m). The hikes are long and strenuous but incredibly rewarding.

Accommodation

Guesthouses and homestays in Karangasem.

Activities

• Jungle & Volcano Trekking — Challenging but unforgettable.

• Pura Pasar Agung Trail — The shorter route (4–5 hours to the crater rim at 2866m).

• Pura Besakih Trail — The longer, harder climb to the summit (3142m). 12–14 hours return.

• Besakih Temple — Bali’s most important Hindu temple, passed on the summit trail.

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🌾 Sidemen (2 days)

Travel

1.5–2.5 hours from the airport, Seminyak, or Canggu.

1.5 hours from Ubud.

Orientation

A peaceful valley of rice terraces, waterfalls, and temples — one of Bali’s most untouched corners.

Accommodation

Guesthouses, bamboo bungalows, and eco‑lodges.

Activities

• Walking Trails — Through rice paddies and villages (guides cost around $19).

• Gembleng Waterfall — A holy site with tiered pools; donation entry.

• Jagasatru Waterfall — A jungle waterfall with a golden Brahma statue.

• Sidemen Village — Morning market, bamboo accommodation, and the Jembatan Kuning suspension bridge.

• Telaga Waja River Rafting — A fun adventure through the valley.

• Taman Ujung Water Palace — A floating palace built in 1921 with sea and mountain views.

• Tirta Gangga — A beautiful water palace with pools and fountains (open 7am–7pm, $5 entry).

  
  

🌿 The Centre — Ubud (3–10 days)

Travel

Ubud is about an hour from Sanur and the airport, costing roughly USD $30–40 by taxi.

Orientation

Ubud is the cultural heart of Bali — temples, waterfalls, rice paddies, jungle, retreats, cafés, and craft shops. It’s compact but busy, especially with day‑trippers. You can base yourself here for several days and do day trips to Munduk, Sidemen, Canggu, and Mt Batur.

Accommodation

Guesthouses and hotels are available in every price range. Staying in town is best so you can walk everywhere and avoid traffic.

Activities

Ubud is rich in culture and nature. These are the highlights:

• Mengening Water Temple — A sacred site known for purification rituals you can participate in.

• Pura Gunung Kawi (20 mins, 50,000 IDR) — An 11th‑century archaeological complex carved into rock cliffs, known as the “Valley of the Kings.”

• Pura Tirta Empul (30 mins, 50,000 IDR) — Famous for its holy spring water and purification pools.

• Monkey Forest (Town, 50,000 IDR) — Over 700 macaques, plus temples and ancient trees.

• Waterfalls near Ubud

  • Goa Rang Reng — Rocky waterfall with local cleansing ceremonies.

  • Kanto Lampo — Popular for climbing; can get busy.

  • Tibumana (10,000 IDR) — Secluded and powerful.

  • Tegenungan (15,000 IDR) — The closest to Ubud, with multiple viewpoints.

• Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) (6km, 50,000 IDR) — A small temple with Hindu and Buddhist elements and a hand‑carved meditation cave.

• Saraswati Temple — A beautiful lotus‑filled water temple with evening dance performances.

• Campuhan Ridge Walk (Town, free) — A 2km scenic walk along a lush ridge, perfect at sunset.

• Tegalalang Rice Terraces (20 mins) — One of Bali’s most iconic valleys. Best early in the morning.

• Ubud Water Palace (Town, free) — A stunning temple behind Starbucks, with nightly dance shows.

• Ubud Market — Famous for the “Ubud bag.” The main market is being rebuilt (2024), with vendors temporarily relocated nearby.

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🏝️ The Islands — The Nusas (3 days)

Travel

You can visit on a day trip, but staying on the islands is far better.

• Nusa Lembongan ↔ Nusa Penida: 15‑minute ferry (about USD $10).

• A good route: Stay on Lembongan → visit Penida → return directly to Bali to avoid backtracking.

• Gili Islands → Nusa: About 3.5 hours by fast boat.

Orientation

The Nusas are three small islands southeast of Bali:

• Nusa Penida — The largest and most dramatic.

• Nusa Lembongan — Relaxed, easy to explore.

• Nusa Ceningan — Tiny, connected to Lembongan by a yellow suspension bridge.

Accommodation

Guesthouses and small hotels are clustered around ferry beaches and popular viewpoints.

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🌅 Nusa Lembongan — Activities

• Jungut Batu — A long beach with great sunsets from the Bukit.

• Mushroom Bay — Sheltered, pretty, and popular with day‑trippers.

• Dream Beach & Sunset Beach (Sandy Bay) — Dramatic cliffs and caves around Devil’s Tear.

• Devil’s Tear — A powerful blowhole with huge waves (spectacular at sunset).

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🌊 Nusa Ceningan — Activities

• Mahana Point — Surfing and cliff jumping.

• Blue Lagoon — A stunning turquoise cove and cliff‑jumping spot.

• Dream Point — Beautiful sunset viewpoint.

• Yellow Bridge — The iconic narrow suspension bridge linking Lembongan and Ceningan.

• Secret Beach — Quiet and scenic.

• Ceningan Cliff Point — Dramatic coastal views.

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🏞️ Nusa Penida — Activities

Nusa Penida is large and rugged. You can tour the whole island in one day by car, but staying overnight lets you explore each coast properly.

East Coast

• Goa Giri Putri Temple — A Hindu temple inside a huge limestone cave accessed through a tiny entrance.

• Atuh Beach — A beautiful white‑sand swimming beach with postcard views from the cliffs.

• Diamond Beach — Spectacular but not suitable for swimming.

• Thousand Islands Viewpoint — Overlooks Diamond Beach.

• Suwehan Beach — A quieter, lovely beach.

• Manta Point — Best spot for manta ray sightings.

• Peguyangan Waterfall — A blue staircase clinging to a cliff, leading to a tiny temple and waterfall.

West Coast

• Kelingking Viewpoint & Beach — The famous T‑rex shaped cliff.

• Paluang Cliff Viewpoint — A quieter viewpoint near Kelingking.

• Angel’s Billabong — A natural infinity pool.

• Broken Beach — A dramatic natural arch.

• Crystal Bay — Great for snorkelling.

• Banah Cliff Point — Impressive sea cliffs.

• Tembeling Cave & Beach — Natural pools and jungle paths.

• Nyanyad Beach — Quiet and scenic.

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📚 Resources

I read widely when planning trips, and I’m grateful to the travellers who share their knowledge. These are some of the sites I found especially helpful:

• https://www.saltinourhair.com/bali/munduk-bali/

• https://theworldtravelguy.com/nusa-penida-island-in-bali-complete-travel-guide/

• https://www.amazingplaces.com/indonesia/bali/

• https://www.earthtrekkers.com/mount-batur-sunrise-hike/